The main causes of hair breakage are typically dry hair and frequent manipulation, but there any different causes. Structurally, our hair cuticle is made of overlapping 'scales' which help keep your hair stranded together. In healthy, undamaged hair, these scales are intact, however, breakage can occur when these scales are damaged or fall apart.
A common complaint we hear is about hair not growing. In most cases, it is growing, it's just breaking as fast as it grows. This has also played a part in adding to the myth that afro hair doesn't grow. However, breakage is the culprit of the myth that afro hair doesn't grow. Afro hair grows just like other hair types but if the rate of breakage is faster than the rate of growth, then you'll struggle to retain length.
1. Dryness
Dry hair is prone to breakage and damage and can be caused by multiple factors.
When it comes to Afro and curly hair, the twists and turns make it harder for sebum (the natural oils your scalp produces) to travel down the hair strand. This means afro and curly hair are dryers than other types.
You can combat dryness by using Baylee Joi Miracle Moisturizer.
Cotton absorbs moisture, which is great when it comes to clothing but it's detrimental to the health of your hair. Sleeping with a satin bonnet helps maintain your hair’s moisture and preserve your hair from forming tangles that lead to breakage. If you dislike hair scarves and bonnets, opt for a silk pillowcase.
2. Heat Damage
In one of our previous posts on avoiding heat damage, we mentioned high temperatures cause the hair cuticle to be raised, not only leaving the delicate cortex of the hair vulnerable to damage but also allowing moisture to escape. Heat styling is one of the main culprits for breakage, especially if you have tight curls. Blowdryers and straighteners strip moisture from the hair, so try to avoid and use heat-free methods to dry or style your hair.
3. Improper Towel Drying
As we mentioned, using heat can lead to damage but did you know improperly drying your hair can lead to hair breakage? Regular cotton towels cause friction which raises the cuticles of your hair strands. Friction causes frizz. Microfibre towels are designed to create less friction (which means less frizz!) and prevent breakage so it’s a win-win for your Afro.
4. Washing Your Hair (The Wrong Way)
Shampoos are great for removing dirt but some also strip the hair of its natural moisture. As a general rule of thumb, we advise using a gentle sulfate-free shampoo, which can help provide a crisp clean and remove buildup without stripping your hair of moisture.
5. Terrible Tools
Step away from the hard bristle brushes and fine-toothed combs. These are enemies of healthy hair. Opt for finger-detangling instead as you’re more likely to be gentle with your hands than with a comb because you can easily feel for knots and tangles.
To finger detangle, simply coat your fingers with oil and work through sections of your hair, starting at the ends and working your way up to the roots. Once a section is detangled, you can twist or braid it to keep it from tangling.
6. Poor Accessories
Excited by the prospect of styling your hair, but unsure if the accessories you are using are the best for your hair? Using poor accessories that easily snag your hair could be the cause of your hair breakage. So make sure to throw away those broken bobby pins and clips.
7. Over-processing
Over-processing or chemically treating your hair can also lead to an increase in hair breakage. Perms, Relaxer other types of permanent straightening, as well as hair coloring/dyeing, can leave your hair susceptible to hair damage and breakage.
Looking to stop chemically treating your hair? Don't forget to check our article on transitioning for practical tips.
8. Wearing Your Hair Out
When you wear your hair down it gets exposed to elements in the air, the material on your clothing, and other things that can cause friction that leads to breakage. Wearing your hair up in a bun or any style off your shoulders stops the friction which causes breakage.
Protective Styles are a great of literally protecting your hair from the elements as they keep the ends of the hair tucked away. Why is this important? Well, the ends of the hair are the oldest and weakest parts of the hair so they need to be handled with care.
9. Tight Protective Styles
We've just mentioned protective styling is great but these styles can be counterproductive to healthy hair growth if installed badly and if you neglect your hair while your style is in.
Although Afro hair thrives when tucked away, your hair still requires moisture while you're rocking your braids. Moisture is essential for keeping your hair healthy and minimizing breakage.
Between washes, spray a light mist of a moisturizing spray, every morning and night directly on your hair. You'll see the difference this makes after removing your braids!
Pro tip: We strongly recommend that you speak up at the hair salon if they are pulling too tightly, using too much heat, or a fine tooth comb.
And remember you should never sacrifice your hair health for a hairstyle! If you're stuck try out a low manipulation style that doesn't require braiding or twisting such as a bun or roll-and-tuck style.
10. Diet
A healthy and balanced diet is essential to your hair and your health. If you're suffering from hair breakage having a look at your diet might be useful, especially, if you've made recent or significant changes. So make sure you are getting all the nutrients you need to grow and flourish.
Easy things you can do is make sure you’re having five portions of fruit and veg each day and try to avoid sweets and fatty foods.
